What is the Burning Season in Thailand?

There are so many positive things about Thailand. From the delicious food to the sunny weather, amazing people and affordability, there’s a lot to love. But for one season, a few months of the year, Thailand becomes a somewhat uncomfortable place to live. After the cool season finishes at the beginning of each year, the unwelcomed burning season arrives. Also known as smoky season, a combination of extremely hot temperatures and pollutants in the air combine to make life in Thailand slightly more unpleasant than it is for most of the year.

In this article I will tell you about my experiences living in Chiang Mai, one of the worst affected regions in the country, and enlighten you with all the information you need to make your own decision about how much of a factor this phenomenon plays in your choice to move to or visit Thailand.

What is burning season?

We must explore an ancient farming technique that has been used across the world for over 10,000 years and in Thailand for more than 400 to understand what causes burning season, a very apt name for what is going on here. ‘Slash and burn’ is an agricultural practice that farmers use to clear land in preparation for their new harvest, they literally set fire to their fields to clear vegetation whilst simultaneously adding a natural fertilizer to the soil. It’s quick, cheap, effective, and has been done for many generations. It’s clear why farmers would partake in such a practice, but the effects are far reaching and detrimental.

Our move to a more contemporary world has come about through large population increases and mass migration to cities. This has subsequently caused many more sources of modern pollution such as vehicles, factories, and construction. On top of that there has been a mass destruction of nature, namely trees, that help absorb pollutants. All of this combined with the ‘slash and burn’ farming is why we see very high pollution levels across cities and many areas of the countryside in Thailand for parts of the year. The situation is only exacerbated in places such as Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai due to their situation in a ‘bowl’ or valley, surrounded by mountains, making them a natural place for polluted air to build up.

Farmers in Thailand are offered financial incentives from the government to stop ‘slash and burn’ practices, and are punished if they are caught partaking. But it’s difficult to stop everyone from doing something that’s been happening for many generations, and the Thai government has no influence over what farmers in neighbouring countries do. The smoke from fires in Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam all effect the pollution levels in Thailand. There is no clear solution to the problem so we must learn how to get by during this time.

When is burning season?

The burning season generally runs from January until April, and peaks in March. It’s not usually noticeable until mid-February, becomes unpleasant in mid-March, and starts to fade away in April. It’s also accompanied by the hot season from March to May, which is when temperatures in Thailand reach uncomfortable levels. April is particularly bad with many days lingering at around 40°. The combination of the pollution and the heat means it’s best to stay indoors as much as you can, and certainly avoid exercise outside.

For a bit more context I’d like to tell you about the three seasons in Thailand, as they are a bit different to what we’re used. The cool season is lovely, temperatures range from 20° to 30° and the air is clear, it lasts from November to February. Next comes the hot season, we’ve already covered that. And last is the rainy season from May to October, humid and cloudy days are occasionally disrupted by heavy rain which does a great job of clearing the air, but by no means does it rain all the time and it can actually be very pleasant. Although these three seasons generally apply to the whole of Thailand, there is some disparity as the climate in the south is vastly different to that in the mountains of the north, so it’s always good to check specifically where you’re going.

Where is most affected by burning season?

It is generally the northern and central regions of Thailand that are affected the worst by burning season. Bangkok can have bad days and struggles with issues from vehicle pollution throughout the year, but is not impacted as consistently by the burning as cities like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. The south is mostly unaffected due to its proximity to the ocean and limited landmass that doesn’t allow for agriculture and subsequent burning.

What is burning season actually like?

I live in Chiang Mai, one of the most affected cities in the country when it comes to burning season. It’s mid-March as I write this article and the pollution couldn’t be much worse, luckily the hot season isn’t quite in full swing yet. Being outside is definitely not pleasant at the moment. Sometimes I feel a bit more phlegmy than usual, I occasionally wake up with a slight sore throat or blocked nose, and on bad days there’s a slight metallic taste in the air and my eyes can start feel a bit sore. This sounds pretty bad but is definitely manageable for most people, and is a price I personally am very happy to pay to live in this incredible place all year round, but I can’t speak for everyone.

In many ways I view the burning season in the same way I do winter in my home country of the UK, you spend most of your time indoors and are more likely to feel a bit under the weather. I still walk my dog several times a day, go out to eat, meet friends, and so on. But I don’t leave my window open like I did a few months ago, I don’t run outdoors, and have found a new gym that is sealed from the outside air. Small changes are necessary to limit exposure but they are manageable and I accept that it’s only for a small part of the year.

Just like summer turning into autumn or winter into spring, there’s also a change in the lighting and general feel when burning season comes around. A haze hangs the air, the red sun smothered behind fog gives off a warm orange glow that’s reminiscent of golden hour, but it could be any time of the day. I actually quite like it providing I don’t think about exactly what it is. On more overcast days the sky is whiter than usual, not a cloud in sight, these are the days I hated in the UK but can actually appreciate in Thailand. However, it’s never nice when you can’t see the mountain. Usually towering over the city, so close you can see the silhouettes of the trees on top, in smoky season you can only make out a rough outline and sometimes it’s completely invisible.

But by far the worst thing I can do is check the AirVisual app that tells me how bad the pollution is, I often do it first thing in the morning and it plants a seed in my head before I’ve had a chance to experience it for myself, because it often doesn’t actually feel that bad. It’s a bit like during COVID lockdowns when you’d check the news even though you knew it was going to be negative and make you feel rubbish. What I’m trying to say is that a big part of surviving the smoky season is having a good attitude, staying positive, and knowing that it’ll be over soon, just like winter in the UK. Life is not awful during the smoky season, you’re still in Thailand after all, and there are things you can do to make it more barrable.

Of course, people with pre-existing health issues may want to be more cautious and consider somewhere less affected by the smoky season, such as the south of Thailand. And there are the long-term health effects to consider, despite Thailand having a lower cancer rate per 100,000 people than the UK, you may not want to live somewhere with so much pollution for a long time. I personally don’t see myself living in northern Thailand forever, and the smoky season definitely has a part to play in that. But for a healthy adult in the short term, I am not significantly impacted or affected by the burning.

How to survive the burning season?

The best way to beat the burning season is to escape it all together. Many older expats and English teachers living in affected areas do just that, a short flight down to Phuket for clean air and accommodation to suit every budget makes the south of Thailand very popular from March to May. Luckily, the school holidays also align well with the burning season, meaning teachers have time off school to travel and enjoy Thailand away from the pollution. Many people travel back to their home country or wherever else they want to explore, it’s a great opportunity to travel and makes lots of sense.

But most locals and many expats can’t just leave, myself included, so we must come up with ways to make sure we stay safe and healthy during this difficult time of the year. Here are my top tips:

• Get one or more air purifiers (HEPA filter) for your home
• Keep windows shut and stay inside as much as possible
• Choose indoor activities when leaving the house
• Wear an N.95 face mask outside on particularly bad days
• Avoid strenuous exercise outdoors
• Drink a lot of water and try to eat healthy
• Monitor air quality and plan accordingly (but stop if you feel overwhelmed)
• Take short trips locally (if possible) to places where the pollution isn’t as bad
• Be positive and talk to people about how you’re feeling

Thailand is wonderful, I feel so lucky to be able to live here and wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. For me, the pollution is annoying and a big inconvenience, but I don’t feel like my health is suffering. If you think that it may affect you negatively in a significant way, physically or mentally, then I would consider avoiding north and central Thailand from March until June, the south is very much an option during this time.

All things considered, I believe that the majority of healthy adults will be fine throughout the burning season as long as they take precautions and prepare for it just like I do. Because like I have already said, it’s a small price to pay for living in such a fantastic place.

If you have any more questions about burning season, life in Thailand generally or how you can be a teacher here, drop me an email at josh@impact-teaching.com.

And check out our Thailand program page to discover how your next flight could be to the Land of Smiles to begin a teaching adventure!

Written by Josh Butterworth. Josh is our Thailand Program Coordinator, and lives in Thailand.